Footloose in Hanoi’s Old Quarter
Asia, Destinations, Features — By Shirish Kulkarni on March 3, 2011 at 5:37 AMHectic, noisy and chaotic is how one would describe Hanoi’s oldest district ‘The Old Quarter’. The narrow lanes here are home to a traditional street market crammed with hawkers selling their wares. Heaps of ripe mangoes, pails of squirming fish and buckets of fleshy frogs are but a few of the commodities available here that mingle to create a piquant and strangely invigorating atmosphere.
Situated around a lake the Old Quarter consisted of about 36 streets, each one named after the goods sold on it. Over the years the place has developed and there are now more than 70 streets in the area.
History – A tradition that withstood the test of time
Hanoi’s Old Quarter has a history that spans 2,000 years and represents the timeless soul of the city. Located between a lake, a bridge, a rampart, and a citadel wall, the Old Quarter started as a snake and alligator-infested swamp. It began to acquire its status as a crafts area when Vietnam attained independence in the 11th century.
In the early 13th century “King Ly Thai To” built his palace there and Hanoi’s skilled craftsmen, mostly originating from the same village, drifted to the palace area. They formed 36 guilds, each occupying a different street.
Hanoi was the capital of French Indochina in the 18th century. It was later occupied by the Americans in the 1950s, who had to leave ignominiously after their debacle in the Vietnam War.
Today’s Hanoi has emerged as a metropolis bustling with life yet still retaining its traditional Asian charm. The French influence is quite apparent with its elegant colonial-era mansions that line the streets of the Old Quarter.
Hang – The common link!
Most of the streets in the Old Quarter start with the word ‘hang’, which means ‘merchandise’, followed by the name of the product that was traditionally sold there. Thus, Hang Da translates as “Leather Street,” while Hang Tre means Bamboo Street.
Han Gai Street offers silk clothing and silver products. Hang Quat amazes visitors with its vividly coloured festival flags and religious objects. Hang Ma sparkles with shiny gift wrappings, wedding decorations and miniature paper objects.
Each street has its own peculiarity and the intertwining and snaking lanes are best explored by aimless wandering.
Hang Bac Street – The Allure of Silver
Hang Bac, one of the oldest streets in Vietnam, dates from the 13th century. Bac means silver, and fittingly, this street started as a silver ingot factory under the reign of Le Thanh Tong (1469-1497). The craftsmen went to great lengths to guard their secret of making silver goods to avoid counterfeit products.
Cau Go Street – A Bridge becomes a Street
Cau Go meaning ‘wooden bridge’ was in fact the location of an erstwhile wooden bridge, made 150 years earlier. However, now the little wooden bridge has become a regular street specializing in women’s accessories.
It is also home to a historical site – the secret headquarters and hiding place of the 1930-45 resistance movement called ‘Love the Country’.
Hang Dao Street
One of Vietnam’s oldest streets it serves as a main axis running from north to south, cutting the Old Quarter in half.
Dao refers to the pink of apricot blossoms, which are symbolic of the Vietnamese Lunar New Year. In the beginning of the 15th century, this street was the location of the silk dyer guild from the Hai Hung Province, which specialized in a deep pink dye and was home to the most exquisite silk cloth.
This street now specializes in ready-made clothing.
Ma May Street – Burning Money is Serious Business here
This street also is a union of two old streets – Hang May and Hang Ma. Hang May sold cane products and Hang Ma sold sacred joss (paper replicas of money, clothing, etc) which is burned in front of the altar of ancestors. Later the streets were combined and named Ma May.
During the French era, this street was called ‘Black Flag Street’ because the soldier Luu Vinh Phuc, leader of a bandit organization called Black Flags, had his headquarters here.
Hang Thiec Street – Tinkering with Tinsmiths
Hang Thiec is the street of tinsmiths. The craftsmen originally produced small tin cone-shaped tips which were used to preserve the shape of the traditional conical hats. A neighbouring street, Hang Non made the hats.
Tin shops sold mirrors which they still do today, along with zinc, glass, oil lamps, candle sticks and opium boxes.
The street resonates with the clanging of hammers against sheet metal where workers are merrily engrossed in shaping metal boxes and other objects.
Lakes – Casting a magical spell
Sometimes called ‘The City of Lakes’ Hanoi has a lot to offer for the nature lover; looking for serendipity and peace. Among its lakes, the most famous are Hoan Kiem Lake, West Lake, Halais Lake and Bay Mau Lake.
Hoan Kiem Lake, also known as Sword Lake, is the historical and cultural centre of Hanoi and is linked to the legend of the magic sword. It is a great place to watch people practicing Tai Chi.
West Lake is the largest lake in Hanoi and is popular for its many temples
Hanoi Army Museum – A relic from the past
Hanoi’s Old Quarter has more to offer than just the merchandise streets. Discarded relics from its war torn past abound in the Army Museum. It showcases Soviet, Chinese, French, and American weapons, along with scale models of famous battles, and a strangely artistic display of war refuse made of spent missiles and wreckage of airplanes and tanks.

The Museum is a testimony to the ravages that have visited this beautiful place.
Confucius and Ho Chi Minh – Unforgettable past
For serenity, quiet and a peaceful atmosphere, visit the Temple of Literature, dedicated to Confucius in 1070 and today an exceptional example of traditional Vietnamese architecture.
No stay in Hanoi is complete without a glimpse of the country’s beloved hero, Ho Chi Minh – his embalmed body is on display in a glass sarcophagus at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.
The Old Quarter is a precious legacy of Hanoi’s ancient past.
Immerse yourself in the historic ambience of this magnificent relic and meander along all the exciting streets. It’s definitely worth it!




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1 Comment
this part of Hanoi is most lively. had gone there. it reflects the true sense of Bazaar. most noisy.